![]() See Multimeter usage for how and what to measure. Using a multimeter would be the most efficient and accurate way of determining if the components are good or not. If there is no change at all, your thermistor is defective. During this process just check if there is any temperature change on the LCD. If there is a change, it means that your thermistor is working, which means that the heater is damaged. ![]() The easiest solution is to take a hairdryer and blow hot air at the Hotend or Heatbed. It is not very common, but there is a chance that extensive printing damaged your heater or thermistor. ![]() How to find out if your Heater or Thermistor is defective for your Nozzle/ Heatbed? In order to find out which one of these is malfunctioning. Would the issue still persist, then there is for sure something wrong with your heater or thermistor. ![]() If you've checked all the above and everything is in order.For MK2/MK25: Make sure the heatbed connector is fully seated into the socket on the RamboMini - You should routinely check this in general!.Remove the cable cover from the back of the heated bed and inspect the leads to ensure they are still intact and soldered securely to the pads.Make sure that your Heated bed thermistor is properly seated under the Golden Kapton tape (photo below).So 1st make sure with which of these you have the problem. I have better results with lower flow rates (dia 0.4 or 1900%), but more testing needs to be done.Preheat error can happen with either with your Nozzle or Heated bed. Filament diameters of around 0.38 translate to the 2200% cmeyer posted (flow rate factors in quadratic, so use fine steps when adjusting it). Flow rate percentage adjustments mess up the ‘layer view’ in Cura (from years of experience with an Ultimaker 2, I find this one of the most helpful features in Cura). Keep in mind that you may have to find a physical solution for levelling the build bed when using Cura.ĭ) With the current version of Cura (v3.3.1) it is better to adjust the flow rate of molten filament via the filament diameter, than the flow rate percentage. The nozzle is too far away from the bed, if the individual lines can be easily separated and do not stick together.)Ĭ) Up Studio allows for an 9-point calibration routine for the z-axis. The nozzle is too close to the bed, if the brim thickness (z-direction) gets to thin and translucent. If you use a brim around a test-model in Cura, the correct height is achieved, if the individual lines that make up the brim squash together nicely. (I think a painfully precise calibration is overkill. I did compile my ‘own version’ from the start code by chrisevich. Perhaps the info below will help someone in the future:Ī) I used the start and end code from chrisevich ( #11) which worked nicely for me.ī) the z-axis calibration code posted by cmeyer never worked for me. I just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread - it helped me tremendously when setting up my Cetus3D MkII with Cura. G1 X50 E360 F300 extrude a 5cm purge line G1 X2 Y178 F5000 move to back right corner M206 X-180 offset X axis so the coordinates are 0.180, normally they are -180.0 Do the paper test and use a gcode file something like this:p.p1 the nozzle offset may be different than in Cetus Studio. make sure your nozzle offset is correct in the starting g-code Remove the cable cover from the back of the heated bed and inspect the leads to ensure they are still intact and soldered securely to the pads For MK2/MK25: Make sure the heatbed connector is fully seated into the socket on the RamboMini - You should routinely check this in general If you've checked all the above and everything is in order.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |